Chain-stitch inseam shoe-sewing machine.



L. E. TOPHAM. CHAIN STITCH INSEAM SHOE SEWlNG MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED JAN. 24. ISIS- 1,241,785u

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A Lnvex-tZZr: IW'tG-S Patented Oct. 2, I917.

Patented Rm 2, 19111 8 suans smvzr 2.

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E. TUPHM L APPLICA'HQH FiLUi NHL 24, 1916.

CHMN STITCH PNSEAM SHOE SEWING MACHINE.

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m smcu msmm sane SEWING mama.

:fiPFlICM'IflN FILE! MR. 20. ISIS.

Patsnte Oct. 2,1917,

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L. E. TOPHAM. CHAIN sm'cH INSEAM SHDE SEWING MACHlNE.

RPPHCAHDN FILED JAN.24. 191G.

Patented Oct 2, 1917.

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L. -E. TOPHAM.

CHAIN STITCH INSEAM SHOE SEWING MACHINE.

APPUCATHJN FILED mazm ms.

12411385. Patented Oct. 2,1917.

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L. E TOPHAM.

CHAIN smcn INSEAM SHOE SEWiNG MACHINE.

APPLICATION FlLED JAN/Z4, 1915 Patented Oct. 2,1911

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CHAIN STITCH NSEAM SHOE SEWING MACHINE.

Patented Oct. 2,1917,

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, chines, and I do hereby declare the UNITED STATE s. PAT NT orrion.

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NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION OF NEW CHAIN-STITCH INBEAM SHOE-SEWING MACHINE- Patented Oct. 2, 191 '1.

Application as January a4, 1916. Serial No. vases.

E. Torof Essex and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and -useful Improvements in Chain Stitch Inseam Shoe Sewin' Maollowuig to be a full, clear, and exact description 0 the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make-and use the same.

The present invention relates to chain stitch inseam shoe sewing machines which employ a curved hook needle and which are used to sew together the upper and insole of turn shoes, or the welt, upper and insole of welted shoes.

After the inseam of a shoe has been sewed on a. machine of the class above referred to the last loop of thread drawn through the work by the needle must be freed from the form these operations. The invention disclosed in that application, broadly conthe needle,

sidered, contemplates advancing from its retracted position as the machine is stopped until the thread is freed from the hook or barb of the needle and bringing the needle to rest in advanced position out of engagement wit the work. -With the specific mechanism described in that application these operations involve a reversal in thedirection of rotation of. the cam shaft of the machine] The reversal in the direction of rotation of-the cam shaft not only necessitates stopping the forward rotation of the cam shaft, turning it backward and again stopping it in predetermined position, but also necessitates stopping the machine in a position in which both the back rest and the welt glide" are locked in engagement with the oe. The present invention conllnited States resid-, mg at Swampscott, in thecounty templates the revision in a machine of the class above re erred to of means which will act automatically as the machine is'stopped and during the continued forwardrotation of the cam shaft to advance the. needle from its retracted position, to freethe needle hook or barb from the thread and bring the needle to rest in advanced osition out of engage ment with the wor By advancing the needle toward the work during the continued forward rotation of the cam shaft and by stopping the needle in advanced position out o engagement. with the work the barb .of the needle is freed from the thread,

as effectively as when theadvancing movement of the needleis produced by a reversal in the direction of rotation of the,

cam shaft. Also, the other parts of the machine are stopped in a position in which the work can be more readily. removed from the machine. However, in curved hook needle inseam shoe sewing machines as usuall constructed an advancing movement towar s the work is imparted to thewelt guide or back rest during the'work piercing stroke of the needle and in apglyin'g the present invention'to an inseam s machine of well-known construction it has been found that during the advancing movement of the needle to free the thread from the barb as the machine isstopped the welt guide or back 'ga e advances partway toward the shoe. 0 facilitate the removal of the shoe from this machine it is desirable that a retracting movement be imparted to the welt ide or back-rest as themachi'iie 'is steppe ture of the invention contemplates *the provision of means for scout-in this result.

The present inventionjwifi be clearly understood from an inspection oi the accompanying drawings in which the preferred embodiment of the invention is illustrated as ap lied to a welt shoe sewing machine of we Lknown construction.

. Referring to the drawings; Figure 1 is a view in'side elevation of the complete machine; Fig. 2 is a view in side elevation, partly in section of the head of the machine; Flg. 3 is a plan view partly in section of a portion of the head of themachine illustrating the mechanism by means of which an advancing movement from "its re- Xtracted position is imparted to the needle .,during the continued forward rotation of 0e sewing and accordingly a furtherfea the cam shaft as the machine is stopped. and the needle is brought to rest in advanced po-. sition out of engagement with the work;

Fig. 4 is a detail view in side elevation partly in section of a portion ofthe head of the machine illustrating particularly the mechanism by which the welt guide is retracted as the needle comes to rest in advanced position; Fig. 5 is a detail view' in' guide retracting mechanism- Fig. 7 'is a lie-- tail view in'rear elevation o the parts illustrated in Fig. 6 and Figs. 8 and 9 are somewhat diagrammatic detail views illustrating the action of the. needle in freeing the thread from the needle hook or barb w an the ma chine is stopped, Fig. 8 illustrating the manner in which "the needle loop is held in the barb of the needle when the needle is at the limit of its retracting stroke, and 'Fig. 9 illustratin the manner in which the needle loop has en freed from the barb of the needle after the needle has-been advanced and brought to rest in advanced position out of engagement with the work. In Fig. 8, for thesake'of clearness, the rear or work side of the needle loop is shown displeased. 'osition which 11; ac;

somewhat from-the tually assumes when t e' needle is retracted.

- The welt shoe sewing machine'illustrated in the drawings, except as hereinafter described, is the same in the construct on are rangement and mode of operation of its parts as theinachine disclosed in the patent to Eppler, No. 1,108,560, dated August at, 1914. Referringto Fig. 2 of the drawings the curved hook needle of the, machine is indicated at 1, the looper at 2, the thread arm at 3, the welt guide at 4, the welt ide slide at. 5, the back rest or hunter at 6, 6 thread .of the machine the cam shaft 8 is driven continuously by means of a belt 10 assing overfa pulley 11 on the cam shaft an over a pulley 12 secured to a shaft 13 mounted in the base of the machine. The shaft 13 is connected by bevel gears 14 and 15 to a sleeve mounted on the ower shaft 16 of themachine and provi ed with one member 17 of a friction clutch. The other meber 18 of the friction clutch is splined on the shaft 16 so as to rotate therewith and is acted upon by a spring 19, the tendency of which is to separate the clutch members. The clutch member 18 is arranged to be acted upon by and the machine can be disconnected from its driving power and. allowed to stop by a total release of the treadle 21.

The machine illustrated in the drawinm is provided with means whereby when i treadle 21 is released to stop the machine}. needle is brought to its retracted osition, as. indicated in ig. 8, and then Florin the continued forward rotation of the cam s aft, is advanced toward the work, as indicated in Fig. 9, and brought to rest in this mlvanced position out of engagement with the 'work. The result of this movement of the needle frees the last loop of needle thread from the barb of the needle, as indicated in Fi 9, and leaves the needle and thread in suc position that the shoe can immediately be removed from the machine without any further manipulation of the machine by the operator. r

' The mechanism illustrated in the drawings for advancing the needle from its retracted position toward the work and bringing it to rest in advanced position out of engagement with the work 1s mounted in the head of the machine and acts u on the cam shaft 8. This mechanism inclu as a friction clutclunounted on the cam shaft of the ma chine, one member of which is constantly driven in the same direction as the cam shaft. This friction clutch when thrown into operation acts first as a friction brake toslow down the cam shaft and then continues theforward rotation of the cam shaft. The mechanism for advancing the need'fie and bringing it to'rest out of engagement with the work as the machine is stopped also includes devices for throwing the friction clutch into and out of operation and for stopping the cam shaft in. a predetermined rection as the cam shaft 8 by means of a worm 25 the shaft of'which is provided with a pulley 26 driven through a belt 27 from a pulley 28,01 the Ewer'shaft 16 of the machine. The clutc member 23 is provided with a hub 29 whichisconnected to. rotate with the belt pulley-.11 by means of a block 30jprojectingj-from the pulley between lugs 31 on the hub 29. This connection causes the clutch member 23 to rotate with the cam shaft, but'permits a movement of the clutch member longitudinally of: the cam shaft toward and from the clutch member 22. Diding the normal operation of the machine in sewin a seam the clutch member 28 is held out o eng g ment with the clutch member 22 by means of a spring 32. This spring is interposed between the head of a pin 33 and the bottom ofa recess in the block 30. The pin 33 extends through the block 30 and is provided on its inner end with a plate 34 overlapping the projections 31 from the hub 29 of the clutch member 23. To cause the clutch member 23 to be moved into and out of engagement with the clutch member 22 the hub 29 of the clutch member 23 is pro? vided with a cam groove 35 which is engaged by a roll on one end of a bell crank lever 36 pivotall mounted on the frame of the machine. he other end of the bell crank lever is provided with a hole 37, see Fig. 7, adapted to receive a locking bolt 38, which while the machine is sewing a seam is held out of engagement with the bell crank lever so that the bell crank lever is oscillated idly by the cam and groove and the clutch member 23 remains out of engagement with the clutch member 22. When. however, the treadle 21 is allowed to rise, the bolt 38 is permitted to engage the hole in the bell crank lever 36. The release of the treadle 21 releases the driving clutch disks 17 and 18 so that the machine is disconnected from its driving power and at the time the bolt 38 engages the bell crank 36 the cam shaft 8 of the machine is turning forward under momentum. The continued forward rotation of the cam shaft 8 causes the cam groove 35 to force the clutch member 23 into engagement with the clutch member 22. After the clutch member 23 is engaged with clutch member 22 the cam shaft is slowed down and then driven forward at reduced speed until the cam groove 35 acting on the roll in the arm of bell crank 36 moves the clutch member 23 out of engagement with the clutch member 32. The clutch member 23 is disconnected from the clutch member 22 just before the needle reaches the position indicated in Fig. 9.

The locking pin 38 is mounted in the end of a slide 39 which is held in normal position by a spring 40. The spring surrounds a bolt 41 extending from the rear end of the slide and is interposed between a shoulder on the slide and the inner end of an adjust able screw threaded sleeve 42. The bolt 41 extends through a fixed bracket 43. and carries a nut 44 which engages the outer side of the bracket 43 so as to hold the spring 40 under tension. The locking bolt 38 is acted upon by a spring 45 which tends to raise it into engagement with 'the bell crank lever 36 and the bolt is provided with a latch 46 arranged to engage a shoulder 47 on the slide 39 and hold the bolt in its lower position until the treadle 21 has been raised suiii ciently to allow the locking bolt to engage the bell crank lever. The latch 46 is loosely pivoted upon a rock shaft 48 journaled in a. block secured to the lower end of the locking bolt 38 and is connected to the rock shaft bv a pin 49 projecting through a slot in the hub of the latch. The rock shaft 48 is provided with an arm 50 which is connected by a rod 5]. to the starting and stopping treadle 21. \Vith this construction, when the treadlc 21 is depressed the rock shaft 48 turns until the latch 46 brings up against the slide 39 and then during the continued downward movement of the treadle the locking bolt is drawn down against the tension of its spring. This carries the latch 46 under the shoulder 47. When the treadle is released the latch 46 prevents the upward movement of the lockin. bolt is rocked unti the pin ,49 strikes the end of and the rock shaft 48 i the slot in the hub of the latch and swings the latch outward, thus disengaging it from the shoulder 47. When this'takes place the spring 45 forces the locking bolt upward against the under side of the bell crank lever 36 and when the hole in thelever registers snaps up into the hole 37 thus connecting. the bell crank lever withthe slide 39. When the bell crank lever 36, and the slide 39 are connected by the locking bolt the movement 9 of the bell crank lever is resisted by the spring 40 and the clutch members 23 and 22 are pressed together with a force depending upon the tension ofthe spring 40.

In the machine illustrated in the drawings the welt guide has advanced partway toward the shoe by the time the needle reaches the position indicated in Fig. 9 To facilitate the removal of the shoe, means are provided whereby as the machine is with the locking bolt the bolt brought to rest with the needle in the position indicated in Fig. 9, the welt guide is retracted. As has been forward movement of the needle and the bringing of the needle to rest in tion indicated in Fig. 9 is connecting the bell crank lever 36 and slide 39. \Vhen these parts are connected the friction clutch members 23 and 22 are brought into engagement and during the continued rotation of the cam shaft a re-' ciprocating movement is imparted to the slide 39 and bolt 41, a forward movement being imparted to the slide by the action of the cam groove 35 and a return 'rearwar movement by the action of the spring-4:0. In the machine illustrated in the drawings this reciprocatory movement guide. The mechanism for actuating the welt guide during the normal operation of the machine in sewing a seam comprises a clutch box 52 through which the welt guide slide 5 passes, a cam actuated lever 53,.and a link 54 connecting the lower end of the lever 53 with the clutch box 52. .The clutch box 52, connecting link 54, and the lower end of the lever 53 are constructed and arranged tooperate in the same manner as described the final the posii; accomplished by of the slide 39 and bolt 41 is utilized to retract the weltthe corresponding parts disclosed in the patent to Eppler hereinbefore referred to. The mechanism for actuating the lever 53 during the normal operation of the machine in sewing a seam consists of a cam actuated lever 55 pivoted upon the upper arm of the lever 53, a toggle consisting of the links 56 and 57 connecting the upper end of the lever 53 with the vertical arm of the tension releasing lever 9 and a link 58 connecting the central point of the toggle with the lever 55. During the normal operation of the machine in sewing a seam with the parts in the position indicated in Fig. 2' the lever 9 is held stationary and during eachrotation of the cam shaft 8 the toggle 56-57 is actuated to oscillate the lever 53. During the final cycle of operations, however, after the treadle 21 has been released 'to stop the machine the vertical arm of the lever 9 is moved backwardly to the position indicated in Fig. 6 and this movement of the arm acting through the links 56, 57 and 58, causes the welt guide to be retracted so as not .to be in a position, to -interfere with the removal of the shoe-when the needle stops in the position indicated in Fig. 9 To utilize the reciprocating movements of the slide 39 to oscillate thelever9 on stopping the machine a link or bar 59 is .pivo'tally connected at its rear end to the upper end of the lever 9 and at its forward end is provided with a. bell crank lever 60. The horizontal arm of this bell crank'60 is provided with a slot which engages a pin projecting from the upper end of an arm 61 the hub 62 of which is journaled on a pin 63 secured in the frame of the machine. The vertical arm of the bell crank is connected by a spring 64 to the arm 61. The hub. 62 is provided with a second arm 65 provided at its upper end with a slot in which is seated a block mounted upon a pin 66 carried by a block 67 secured tothe outer end of bolt 41 between the nut 44 and a nut 68. In the normal position of the parts, while the machine is running, as indicated in Fig.2, the pin in the upperend of arm 61 presses against the end of the slot in bell crank 60 and holds the bell crank and the link 59 in the position indicated in Fig. 2, the spring 40'which acts on the slide 39 being suiiicient to overcome spring 64 which acts on bell crank 60. When, however, the slide 39 moves forwardly during the final cycle of operations of the machine the hub 62 is rocked through the arm 65 and the pin in the upper end of arm 61 is moved outwardly in the slot of bell'crank 60 so that the spring 64 acting on the bell crank is permitted to swing the parts into the position indicated in Fig. 4. With the parts in this position the horizontal arm of bell crank 60 is substantially in alinement with the link 59 so that when the slide 39 is returned to its original position by the spring 40 the link 59 is moved endwise and the lever 9 is moved to the position indicated in Fig. 6.

In the machine illustrated in the drawings the lever 9 is also utilizedto apply a brake to the cam shaft? As shown, the brake consists of a brake band 69 arranged to act on a disk secured to the cam shaft. One end of this brake band is secured to the stud 63 and the other end is secured to an eccentric 70 formed on the stud 71 which forms the pivotal connection between the link 59 and the lever 9. To release the brake band by the downward movement of the starting treadlc sothat the brake may be removed befo'rethe machine is started the stud 71 is provided. with a slotted arm 72 which is engagedby the pin 73 which forms the pivotal connection..;between the arm 50and the rod 51.

To return the lever 9 to the position indi cated in Fig. 2 and also to cause, the link '59 and bell crank 60' to assume the position indicated in Fig. 2 the cam shaft of the machine is provided w'ith a. cam 74 which during the first rotation of the camshaft after the machine is thrown into operation engages and lifts the link 59.

The natureand scope of the present inventionhaving been indicated and the pre ferred' form of the invention having been described, what is claimed is 1. An inseam shoe sewing machine, having in combination, stitch forming mechanism including a curved hooked needle, a looper and devices cooperating therewith to form a chain stitch seam, and means operating automatically on stoppingthe machine to continue the forward rotation of the cam shaft to advance the needle from, its retracted position to free the hook from the last needle loop and bring the needle to rest in advanced position out of engagement with the work.

2. A chain stitch inseam shoe sewing machine, having in combination, stitch form- 'ing devices including a curved; hooked needle and a looper, a wo'rk guide, means operating automatically on stopping the machine to continue the forward rotation of the cam shaft to'advance the needle from its retracted position to free the hook from the last needle loop and bring the needle to rest in advanced osition out of engagement-with the 'wor and means thrown into operation on stopping the machine for retracting the work guide. a

' LAURENCE E. TOPHAM. 

